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Rabbit Care 101: A Comprehensive Guide for Happy and Healthy Bunnies

Introduction

Welcome to my all-encompassing guide on rabbit care! Whether you're a novice rabbit owner or seeking to enhance your existing knowledge, this page is designed to assist you in providing optimal care for your cherished furry companion. Please bear in mind that there can be varying opinions on advice but this advice is based on my 20 years experience of rabbit care. All advice is given with the best intentions of the rabbits.

1. Choosing the Right Rabbit

Breeds

Rabbits come in various breeds, each with its own unique characteristics. Consider factors such as size, temperament, and grooming needs when selecting the right breed for your lifestyle. I find the rabbit breeds with the best temperment are those that are closest to the tradition rabbit shape and size. Smaller rabbits, as cute as they are, can be quite delecate and have bossy personalities 😊

Adoption vs. Purchase

Adopting a rabbit from a shelter or animal rescue really is the best option. It not only provides a home for a bunny in need but also often includes spaying/neutering and vaccinations. Getting an older well established rabbit can also mean that you will get more of a idea of their personality and how they will fit into your home. From my experience, rabbits that are provided by retail stores tend to have more health and behavioural issues.

2. Setting up a Rabbit-friendly Environment

Indoor vs. Outdoor Housing

Decide whether your rabbit will live indoors or outdoors. Generally, free-roaming Indoor living is preferred as it is safer and allows for more interaction. Rabbits who live indoors can live up to 10/12 years but outdoor living will significantly reduce their life span. Personally, I would always recommend indoor free-roaming homes and if you cannot provide this, maybe reconsider getting a rabbit until you can house them indoors.

Cage and Hutch Requirements

Ensure your rabbit has a comfortable and spacious enviornment to hop around. Include a designated area for sleeping and a litter box. Indoor rabbits can be very easily trained to go to the toilet in their litter box and willl be happy to hang out around the house when they settle in.

If you house your rabbit outdoors, please bear in mind that during the winter months, they will need to be placed in a sheltered place out of the elements. A shed or other outhouse should be prepared where you can place their hutch or provide an indoor cage and run. No matter how much space your rabbit has to run around, when the cold and wet weather sets in, your rabbit will be sensitive to it and may not survice until spring.

3. Proper Nutrition

Fresh Hay: A Staple in Their Diet

Provide unlimited access to fresh hay, as it is essential for dental health and digestion. No matter how much hay you give your rabbit, it is never too much. I pop have into their litter tray, I will have a hay holder full of hay in their feeding areas and I will also give them homemade cardboard toys with hay inside to ensure they always have access. I would recommend a high quality hay that your rabbit starts munching on immediately when you give it to them. If you find your rabbit is slow to eat or refusing their hay, please reduce all other types off food until they do. You may need to try a couple of different types of hay until they are happy to much. Limit the intake of alfalfa hay, especially for adult rabbits.

High-Quality Rabbit Pellets

Choose high-fibre, hay-based pellets for your rabbit. Make sure to follow the guidelines on the packaging as pellets can cause unnecessary weight gain, especially in older rabbits. Limit the intake of alfalfa pellets, especially for adult rabbits. Please avoid the old fashioned 'meusli mix' type rabbit food - they will just pick out the tasty treats and leave any of the essential fibres.

Fresh Vegetables and Fruits

You can offer a limited amount of fresh vegetables and fruits to supplement their diet. Avoid high-sugar food and poisonous foods. Like sweets or chocolate for humans, high-sugar foods can cause unnecessary weight gain and issues with your rabbits teeth. They may also not eat their hay or pellets if they are expecting to get those tasty treats instead, causing gut issues which we really need to avoid.

4. Hygiene and Grooming

Litter Training

Rabbits can be litter-trained very easily. Use a large litter box filled with rabbit-safe litter and clean it regularly. It may take several weeks to convince your rabbit to contain everything within their litter box but patience is the key with a little bit of encouragement and praise. As good as your bun may be with their toilet habits, accidents do happen so try and not scold them. Rabbit will also sometimes mark territory by leaving their little balls around. I would recommend a good upright dustpan and brush as these are usually very dry and easily to clean up. I also pop any stray poops into their litter box to remind them that this is where it should go.

Brushing and Nail Clipping

Regular grooming is essential for your rabbit. Although rabbits are famous for their dislike of being lifted and cuddled, I would recommend that you do train them to be lifted for health purposes. A clean and healthy coat will ensure that your rabbits health will be top notch. Long haired rabbits will need extra care with their grooming and I would recommend you brush them at least once per day.

You rabbits nails are designed for foraging and digging in the wild but without this they will grow longer, causing discomfort. You should trim your rabbits nails as needed, if you do not feel comfortable with this you can ask your vet or local rabbit expert who may even teach you to do it yourself.

5. Exercise and Playtime

The Importance of Play

Rabbits are playful animals and are easily bored. Provide opportunities for daily exercise and mental stimulation using chew toys, cardboard and dig boxes. They will also quite happily run around the house - make sure to watch out for their little happy jumps which we call binkies!

Safe Toys and Play Areas

Choose safe toys that encourage natural behaviours. I would recommend as much natural wooden toys as possible. Unfortunately this comes as a cost as rabbits will chew on wood at every opportunity, but this will keep them healthy in the long run and keeps their teeth in check.

Ensure any play areas are free from hazards and safe from harm. Keep other pets away from your rabbit unless closely supervised indoors. Your pets may look very comfortable together but dogs and cats are hunters while rabbits are prey animals and accidents happen when their natural behaviours bubble to the surface. When indoors, all rabbit areas should be free of anything that you would not like to be chewed or scratched, especially live wires or 'spicy hay' as we call it. Rabbits adore chewing on wires but this can be fatal or cause serious harm to your bun. Outdoors play should be closely monitored in a secure area. I would recommend an enclosed wire pen that would prevent any predetors accessing the pen and prevent your rabbit from hopping out. You would be amazed the heights they can reach!

6. Healthcare

Regular Veterinary Check-ups

Your rabbit needs regular check-ups with a rabbit-savvy veterinarian to monitor their health and address any concerns promptly. I would recommend that the first visit to the vet would be their vaccinations as soon as possible after you get your rabbit home. The vet will then assess for neautering if not already performed and set up a regular schedule of check ups. The bare minimum I would recommend is at least every 6 months.

Common Health Issues and Symptoms

Be aware of common health issues such as dental problems, GI stasis, and respiratory infections. I am very adept at checking rabbits for signs of illness but I would recommend that you become your own veterinary assistant and get used to checking eyes, ears, belly, nails, coat and more. The more savvy you get, the quicker you will identify issues to ensure the lifespan of your rabbit.

A common question I get is 'Do they really need to be vaccinated and neutered? They're living on their own.' The answer is yes to both. Vaccinations are vital as there are 2 RHD viruses that kill rabbits very quickly and another disease called myxomatosis that kills them unfortunately slowly. All of these diseases cause your rabbit painful deaths which can be prevented. Neutering your rabbit will prevent uterine cancers that most female rabbits will develop. Both sexes will benefit because if they are left intact, hormone surges, even while living alone, can cause behavioural problems, whihc are the number 1 reason for rabbits being dumped by their owners.

7. Socialisation and Companionship

Bonding with Your Rabbit

Spend quality time bonding with your rabbit through gentle petting and positive interactions. Once your rabbit lives indoors, they will get used to your routine and even know when you will feed them. Human bonding is a very enriching process for your rabbit as they become more aware of your intentions and will come to trust you - even to the point that they will boss you around! Rabbits are very interactive pets and in the right enviornement, will live a long happy and fulfilling life. Bear in mind, it can take up to 3 months for your rabbit to settle in but when they do, you will feel like they've always been there.

The Benefits of Having a Companion

Consider getting a second rabbit for companionship, as they are social animals that thrive on interaction. If you don't think that you will have a lot of time for your rabbit or they will be spending a lot of their day alone, you should get them a companion to prevent boredom. The best pairing is a neutered male/female pair. All rabbits should be neutered at least 6 weeks prior to introduction and should be introduced very slowly. Rabbits are very territorial and it will take time for them to settle their hierarcy and chose who is in charge. I'll give you a clue - it's usually the girls! 😂

Please bear in mind, if you have an existing bonded pair that aren't neutered - this bond will most likely be broken if 1 or both are neutered and you will most like have to rebond them 6 weeks after they are healed. Also, 2 males or 2 females pairings tend to fight quite a bit more so keep this in mind if you want to go down this route. I do not recommend bonding more than 2 rabbits, although some people do manage to make colonies work.

Remember, each rabbit is unique, so pay attention to their individual needs and preferences. By following these guidelines, you can create a loving and healthy environment for your bunny companion. If you have any specific questions or concerns, consult with your rabbit-savvy veterinarian for personalised advice.

If you have any questions about this article, please call me directly

089-448 5149

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